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Thursday, 27 December 2012

Large Shark Tank fails in China!

Not a good day for the tanks inhabitants or the people enjoying it!

RO Machine - Part 8

Latest progress on the RO Machine…

I had finally depleted the contents of the water butt so i could install the level sensors…

These are available from

1-Daily FTS RO Machine.27

Made a couple of holes in the barrel using a multi tool, mainly using a milling bit followed by a sanding cylinder which was exactly the same as the thread size, so with the roughed hole the sanding cylinder just needed gently pushing through and it made a perfect sized and round hole!

2-Daily FTS RO Machine.11

The two floats installed…

3-Daily FTS RO Machine.50

These floats will communicated with the Arduino to tell it when the barrel is full or empty.

The third and longer float you can see was already installed. This is a valve and where the water comes in from the RO Unit’s output.

It is mounted slightly higher than the electronic float switch and will shut off the feed should the switch fail for any reason.

The switches themselves are just normal micro switches that activate when the float actuates…

4-Daily FTS RO Machine.04

In an effort to make the final system look as neat and tidy as possible and not have wires and other random components hanging around, not to mention, protecting them from possible damage.

I had it in my mind that some kind of enclosure would be required to fulfil this.

Ideally i really wanted one of the large steel automation cabinets you can get to really complete the look. However, for the size i really require, then can reach hundreds if not thousands of pounds! So that was put to one side…

Plastic enclosures were also looked at, but i could really find a large enough one to compare with the proper steel cabinets.

In the end i came across this…

5-Daily FTS RO Machine.37

It’s a big sturdy and spacious enclosure with a lockable door!

It’s basically an electric/gas meter box that you find on the side of your house, and cost me the handsome sum of £30! Brand new!

It should be ideal as its made from GRP, and already has weak points so you can punch small areas out to run cables or pipes in and out of it.

Not the most sophisticated looking thing but it should certainly do the job!

As a bonus it has a thick chipboard backboard, so mounting stuff into it is even easier!

6-Daily FTS RO Machine.35

So far i have made a bit of a shelf and mounted the solenoids to them, function over form again with a piece of MDF and a couple of brackets, but they are safe and secure and should be plenty of room for piping up as there is a gap at the rear of the shelf too.

7-Daily FTS RO Machine.01

8-Daily FTS RO Machine.44

I’m not 100% sure what to do with the rest of the space in the box. From the pictures you can see i have offered the pumps up to see if they will fit in, and i think there will be enough room, however i have considered putting the main controller and TDS controller in there instead?

I do feel its perhaps best to protect the controllers from any accidental water spray should it happen, and keep them mounted externally, after all, water and electricity are generally not a good mix!

If the pumps do go in there, i may get a second box to mount the electronics into???

Reflectors back on, and a new toy.

Had a ride to one of my favourite local shops in the hope that they had some replacement Juwel reflector clips in. Thankfully the are a main dealer and do carry a good catalogue of spares.

Daily FTS Lido 120.02

A fiver to replace them, more acceptable than having to buy a whole new set of them! I now have full brightness back in the tank, it really does make a substantial difference! If you think about it, 50% of the usable light being emitted from the tubes is technically lost. It still baffles me how they do not come standard with the aquarium.

As you can see i also purchased a small Mag-Float for the Lido. Wonderful things that help keep the glass clean and prevent you having to put your hands into the water!

I'm not saying that to sound like I'm scared of getting wet, it is just a good idea to limit contact with the water as much as possible. The products, chemicals and natural oil secretion that may be present on our skin is better left out of the aquarium!

So a great little tool! Especially if you whip over the glass every day or so for a couple of minutes, it will stay crystal clear.

As the name suggests, should the two become separated, the half in the water will just float to the top, and if you are quick enough, you can detach the outer piece and hold it on an adjacent pane, and there should be enough magnetism to pull it back, so you can continue around the whole aquarium.

Go ahead and spend your Christmas money on one!

Daily FTS Lido 120.36

Wednesday, 26 December 2012

Advantage of a hooded aquarium!

While i do love the ultra modern and sophisticated look of a rimless and braceless aquarium, i would be in constant fear that the livestock would be spooked one day and end up dry and crispy on the living room floor.

On a walk by head count today i had to double and triple check the fact of only seeing 3 of my 4 Dwarf Gourami’s swimming around, initially i fear the worst, until i saw this bemused face looking out the filter box.

Dwarf Gourami.47

I do leave the top cover off the filter box as they do not tend to fit very well and always end up buzzing and rattling if they somehow rest on the power head or the cable.

Perhaps they were playing Monopoly and he had been sent “Straight to Jail?” <tumbleweed>

Dwarf Gourami.35

I went to scoop him out with my hand, which honestly made him jump, resulting in a back flip back into the main water body!

Thankfully the initial leap of faith wasn't close to the two openings in the rear of the hood!

Sunday, 23 December 2012

New GHL ProfiLux Updates

Noted a few new items on the GHL download pages today. The most interesting being a new Firmware Version release and an updated version of ProfiLux Control (PLC) to v5.1.5.1

Currently in BETA due to the website so i may hang on shortly for the full stable version.

However from the release notes there are a few things that have me very interested…

Version 5.15
    - adjustments for ProfiLux 3 Outdoor
    - support for new cards PLM-4Level and PLM-pH/Redox-2Level
    - new tokens for creating own web pages in ProfiLux
    - digital inputs can start now all special actions (e.g. like waterchange 2 or maintenance 3 etc.)
    - ProfiLux is prepared for the new GHL-apps
    - NTP: timezones extended
    - for waterchange and auto top off with the same sensors it is possible now to use different sockets without the need to use the programmable logic
    - minor bugs of the previous versions fixed
    - prepared for the coming new firmware for ProfiLux Touch and SMS-module


The third point regarding the tokens for the web pages has been of interest. There is also new documentation on the GHL download centre for this. I do like this part of the ProfiLux and have spent some time playing with the tokens in both the web page and the email update system. So its great to have new ones to add extra information in.

These new tokens include…

  • The ability to set actual and nominal decimal point precision
  • Sensor operation state symbols
  • A Max/Min allowed range of a sensor
  • Level Control names and descriptions can be obtained, as well as their current operational state, signified with various symbols.
  • Feed Pause, Maintenance, Water Change and Thunderstorm activity.
  • Measurement Value Sample

The last one i am not completely sure about, however it does appear to give a sensor value from a specific time and date!

Still, plenty of new things to have a go with!

The next interesting bit is the Digital Inputs. This is not something I've had any experience with as of yet, but will be looking to use them in the future, with water change being one of the finer points. So it’s good to know there has been some development towards that functionality.

The new App preparation is also a thumbs-up! Waiting for a release on that, but it must be coming soon if the rest of the hardware is coming up to speed.

NTP: timezones extended… i already have this setup with my ProfiLux CLICK HERE for more details on how to set it up and frankly it works brilliantly! It keeps the ProfiLux internal time very accurate which tends to loose or gain seconds over time. I'm not exactly sure what has changed here as i cannot see anything in the latest documentation or within PLC?

The final item that has me more interested than anything on the list, is the preparation for the new Touch firmware.

The Touch is a great add on to the ProfiLux system but it really does feel a little bit basic and limited for the time being, it really could have huge potential which i am sure GHL will work on it over the coming months, but i am very interested to see what the changes to it will be on this pending update.

As a general update to my ProfiLux ownership and usage… i am glad i spent the bit extra and went with it. I have been really impressed with its functionality, even though i have only really scratched the surface. The way it manages all the timer system and can over ride them in the event of feed or maintenance pauses, is just brilliant, as one of my pet hates was always fumbling round trying to find plug sockets or line switches buried down the back of the aquarium!

A quick tap on the Touch or a button on the ProfiLux itself to set the aquarium into the required state is a great thing.

The temperature control has also been rock solid stable and flawless, it will be great to soon see how other sensor controlled systems work when i eventually get it connected up to my reef tank build.

The only minor issue i do have is the system does occasionally stop sending my requested email updates. There is no specific time as to when it will do it, and switching the main unit off and on again does seem to instantly get it going again.

I am not blaming the ProfiLux, as it may be an issue with my network and/or router at the moment, so i need to look at that in a little more depth before coming to any conclusion. I shall report back as always when i figure it out!

All ProfilLux manuals and software can be found HERE at the official GHL website.

Wednesday, 19 December 2012

Understanding Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium.

Recently came across an excellent video giving a quick and simple explanation about the relationship of Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium and essentially why they must remain in balance to maintain a healthy reef aquarium.

I don't own this video. It is the property of

RO Machine - Part 7

The relay boards are now semi-permanently connected.

I have the data lines connected using the two banks of 8 Analogue pins from the Arduino board. Why is this?

Mainly because i have two relay boards with 8 relays a piece, which each have an individual sense pin.

I also have no need for any analogue input such as sensors, and the Arduino can quite happily repurpose the Analogue pins as regular Digital pins. So the construction and wiring have turned out very nice and neat.

Daily FTS RO Machine.17

Happily, all the relays switch when asked to do so, but at the moment they are powered from the 5v supply from the Arduino itself, which can only cope with so many being switched at once before the current draw becomes too great and it shuts down and reboots!

Fine for doing a dry test run but not practical for the future!

This was to make sure the wiring was OK anyway, i will need a dedicated 5v power supply to provide enough juice to switch the relays adequately.

At the moment i actually have a mishmash of 5v, 12v, 24v and 240v requirements in this build, so I'm leaning towards making a custom power supply that will have one wall socket into a common box with the necessary circuitry inside to create the required voltages for each part of the system. It will certainly be a much neater setup instead of having several wall sockets and power supplies strewn everywhere!

I still need to rig my container up with the level sensors and improve the fluid retention integrity (the taps a bit leaky) and I'm also considering building it into a box type construction, and insulated with some polystyrene, along with the RO unit to protect the both from falling temperatures in the winter months.

I'm happy this project is finally making some decent progress though, but still plenty to go at.

How To: Replace Juwel T5 Tubes

A quick guide to show how this is done, not that its difficult in the first place.

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.06

Wait for your lighting cycle to end and the bulbs to cool, or catch them before your cycle starts.

Remove the flaps then lift the whole unit off the top of the aquarium…

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.41

At this point i would say remove the reflectors, BUT STOP! Don’t remove them before you remove the bulbs. Once you have done so, you can slide the tubes out from the clips.

Why am i saying this?

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.46

I am saying it because i had a 100% failure ratio with the clips where one side snapped off, and i wasn't being aggressive with the tubes either, just gently pried them out.

The plastic appears to have gone very hard and brittle, perhaps from the heat, perhaps from UV degradation (if that's possible from T5 tubes?). Either way I'm a little miffed and the usual high quality Juwel standards seem to have slipped a little bit.

I did try to fix them with a dab of superglue, which held them for so long before eventually failing again. Thankfully the clips can be purchased separately for a few pounds which i will obtain some as soon as possible, for now though I'm reflector-less!

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.02

Your reflectors will most likely be very grubby, this is an opportunity to give them a clean and back to full potential.

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.21

A blob of washing up liquid and a dish sponge bring them up fantastic, no need for any strong chemical cleaners. Don’t use anything abrasive either like scouring pads!

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.28

The bulbs are removed by first releasing the end caps, don't loose the red o-ring on the inside!

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.17

Gently pull the tube out the fitting, sometimes you need to gently weave it through the slot in the thread to get the pins out. Don't be heavy handed, remember they are only made of very thin glass!

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Bulb Replacement.01

Install is the opposite of removal… (reflectors shown attached before the glue failed!)

  • Slide the tube into the reflector clips to save damaging them!
  • Put the end caps onto the tube, again check the o-ring is there and in good condition.
  • T5 tubes have no polarity so it doesnt matter which way they go in.
  • Gently handle the tube and work the pins through the slot in the threaded part of the fitting.
  • Apply light pressure to the metal end cap so it “clicks” into the connections.
  • Reattach the end cap, take your time and don't cross thread it. Do them up hand tight.

Return the unit to the tank, replace the flaps, and power them up!

2012-12-19 14.44.15


Despite them seeming a little dull with increased shadows due to the lack of reflectors, the colour in the tank looks 10 times better! Really goes to show that you don't notice them wearing out when looking at the aquarium on a daily basis.

RO Machine - Part 6b

Just to round off part 6 as a whole.

Purchased a new button for the one with the failed LED. All good now.

Shortened all the wires for the buttons to the interface board, as there was no need for them to be so long anymore, and saves forcing loads of additional wire into the case.

Daily FTS RO Machine.46

Programmed a few test sequences to check the illumination and the operation of the buttons…

Daily FTS RO Machine.53

All lights up fine! Although the green seems a bit dim, despite having the same load resistor as the rest. It works enough to see, so that's fine!

Daily FTS RO Machine.21

Followed by a quick test to ensure all the connections for the button interface worked, thankfully the whole thing works a complete treat!

Next job is to get the relay boards wired in…

Tuesday, 18 December 2012

Changing Aquarium T5 Tubes

My Lido 120s T5 tubes have almost pulled a 12 month shift and i am starting to think they are getting a little bit tired.

Over the last month or so, a small patch of algae has started to form, specifically the short green hard tuft algae. Granted its a common type to be found in the home aquarium, but since keeping my water nutrient parameters in check, and using Seachem Flourish Excel (which is absolutely not an algaecide <wink wink nudge nudge>) and some elbow grease based husbandry on the aquarium, it has been free of any excessive nuisance algae, bar a bit i leave in there on purpose in case some of the inhabitants fancy a bit of salad.

So my next thought as to why this patch is forming, has boiled down to the expectation that the current tubes are starting to drop off in terms of performance and shift toward the red end of the spectrum.

As I'm keeping the Juwel Hi-Lite system on this aquarium, it is good to know that Juwel always seem to have a perpetual “Buy One Get One Free” on their lighting tubes, this was handy as i need one Daylight 9000k tube and one Natural 4100k tube.

I have been running two of the Natural 4100k tubes for the last 12months and fancy going back to the original setup comprising of one of each, mainly to get a bit more blue back in there and give a better range of light frequency. Hopefully a more visual treat than the constant yellow light, and will be very interesting to see if any of the plants respond.

Juwel Hi Lite T5 Day Natural.18

Here is the patch of algae that has had be concerned. Its started off as a small strip on the wire for the power head, but is slowly becoming a small pasture on the side of the filter box.

Juwel Lido 120 Algae.31

Of course, this did point me to looking up the question of:

When should i change my aquariums T5 tubes?

The exact answer to this question is pretty much folk law, myth and legend!

There is no real single answer to tell you when you should change them. It mainly boils down to different opinion and even the brand of the tube.

Some T5 devotees i know who run reef aquariums will strictly change their T5 tubes at 6 months to always ensure they are delivering the maximum amount of correct light all the time, which i sympathise with if you are looking after very sensitive and potentially expensive or rare livestock.

The general consensus of T5 tube replacement found on forums and elsewhere on the internet, seems to stick between 6 to 12 months with the average being 9 months.

Other people will give you interesting and seemingly well documented scientific responses, on how the maximum output will be good for 6 months followed by a performance and PAR decline down to as much as 50% over a 3 month period (as an example). We as human beings who only need light to see with (we don't photosynthesise to my knowledge) will most likely not notice such a shift in our home aquariums, especially as we see them almost everyday and will desensitise to the reduction in light performance as a result.

The only true way to measure T5 performance drop off would be to do a lengthily on-going study with PAR sensors to determine these points in time and change the tubes at the suitable moment when it begins to reach an unacceptable level… not an ideal setup for most aquarists!

The 9 month period works out nicely for me as per my previous statements, that this algae has only started to show up recently and the tubes are pushing the 12 months mark. As i have two pairs of tubes i will switch them out very soon and set a schedule for 9months for the next pair and of course, monitor the response from the aquarium itself.

T5 replacement can get very expensive depending on the size of your lighting rig, but the Juwel BOGOF deal means for 9months its cost me around £23 or around £2.55 per month.

I appreciate some might question “if it isn't broke, why fix it?”

I know people at the other end of the spectrum who will quite likely point out their tubes have been running for several years and still seemingly going strong.

Granted we are blessed these days with better fluorescent light technology stemming from the use of digital ballasts and the move to T5 from T8 tubes, I'm sure many will remember the annoying flashing when the “starter” had gone in old style fluorescent light units or when only half of the tube would light up.

If you are running a Fish Only aquarium and don't intend to keep plants or corals then you may well get away with using tubes until their last gasp, the only real colour selection you need to do is to give the best personal visual appeal to the tank, and as long as your tubes are not contributing to an algae problems then sure, go ahead and run them as long as possible.

Plants and Corals are different. Dead or dying tubes are like having a dead or dying sun (which wouldn't be good for anyone). These organisms need the correct amount and correct type of light to support their biological functions. Hence its important to swap them out on occasion.

What is the best time in the day to change T5 tubes?

  • Before or after they switch off from the normal lighting period.
  • Give them a full 100% lighting period stint to help them get burnt in.
  • If you do them after the lights have gone off, give them half an hour to cool off first!

There are many scientific postings around the internet that really get down to the nuts and bolts of T5 usage. Following is a link to Advanced Aquarist which is actually a review link for several actinic tubes, but there is some very interesting learning and education in the article specifically around Photo-synthetically Active Radiation (PAR). It’s a good read if you have 20minutes.

Link to Advanced Aquarist

Radion Pro New Information

From my daily peruse around the latest aquarium information and feeds on the web, i came across a snippet about the pending EcoTech Marine Radion PRO LED fixtures that are due for release in the very near future.

The best bit, it looks like the fixtures will be a little bit cheaper than the original forecasted prices. Which goes to show the cost of LED technology is really starting to tumble and thus making it more accessible to many more hobbyists.

As i already own the Generation or G1 fixtures as they are now known, i am mostly interested in the proposed upgrade paths to boost my existing equipment to the new lighting modules. This appears to be coming along somewhere early next year. Hopefully in the first quarter, as i hope be going through the cycling stages of my reef aquarium and going toward getting some live stock and corals in there at around March/April time.

Source from Reef Builders

Sunday, 16 December 2012

RO Machine - Part 6a

A quick update from the larger operation yesterday. Looking into the two button illumination issues.

After a bit of testing with the Multi Meter, it turns out one circuit seemed to have continuity between other circuits from the interface board back to the Arduino. Namely the button that would light on another circuit but not on its own.

After removing the interface board and looking very closely, i noted a tiny splinter of conductive material bridging two tracks, obviously from me making the breaks and not thoroughly checking afterwards. With that removed, everything then worked fine on that circuit! Luck of the draw i suppose that the short circuit didnt damage anything!

The other button failing to illuminated does look as though the LED within the button itself has indeed failed. Even on a test circuit the thing fails to light, so that will need replacing, not much i can do in that case!

1-Daily FTS RO Machine.23

RO Machine - Part 6

Finally managed to get round to spending some more time with the RO Machine. After a lengthy wait for some out of order components, i eventually took another direction and happily received a host of items to start wiring up all the different sections of the control box.

Managed to put a good days effort into it.

It started like this…

Daily FTS RO Machine.15

With the idea being to use crimp connectors and housings to make up custom wiring looms…

Daily FTS RO Machine.48

The Arduino AT Mega board takes place in the centre of the lower half, flanked by the two relay boards…

Daily FTS RO Machine.54

After a bit of practice with the crimping tool, my first task was to give installing the LCD a go…

Also a small board as can be seen in the top corner of the upper half was made to act as a power rail board. The Arduino 5v and GND connections got to this board allowing several connections to go to the LCD and eventually to the relay boards…

Daily FTS RO Machine.23

Hooked up to the laptop and a test run to ensure all the connections were sound…

Daily FTS RO Machine.30

Thankfully it was a success!

Next job was to connect up the interface board and control buttons, with the watchful eye of my quality engineer…

Daily FTS RO Machine.13

A bit of a tidy up once the wires were connected and routed…

Daily FTS RO Machine.45

So far so good, I'm quite happy with how neat it becomes despite the crimping being a little tedious and fiddly! Doesnt half make the ends of your fingers a bit sore!

I got to the point of testing the button illumination, with a few bugs it would seem. One button doesnt seem to light at all, possibly faulty within itself, another button failed to illuminate, but would do so if i swapped it onto another plug on the interface, suggesting an iffy solder joint somewhere on the interface board.

It was getting a little late and me a little tired, so will return to it with fresh eyes and better temperament for solving problems very soon!

Saturday, 15 December 2012

DaStaCo Calcium Reactor Arrives

Long time waiting for an update for my Woodson Aquaria. At long last my DaStaCo 800 Calcium Reactor has arrived. With thanks to Jon and Rachael at H20 Aquatics.

This was the last large piece of the puzzle i needed in my hands so i can make the final plans for getting the aquarium up and running.

With it confirmed that the reactor will fit into the area that i want it located i can now set about constructing the stand alone refugium. The acrylic is on order… so a bit more waiting… again!

2-DaStaCo Calcium Reactor.43

Its a hefty sized piece of kit! The two chambers are around the size of a Deltec PF501! I have no doubt this will cater for my reefs needs for many years to come.

5-DaStaCo Calcium Reactor.30

The control unit that makes everything all “oh-so-simple” and a monster of a peri pump to keep the system fed!

6-DaStaCo Calcium Reactor.36

The peri really is a beast of a unit, mounting it along with the controller may well be a little tricky, but it is mounted on a removable bracket should a more appropriate location be found.

The control box itself its small and neat with that one simple control dial.

3-Aqua Medic CO2 Solenoid.17

Aqua Medic CO2 electronic solenoid, this connects to the DaStaCo controller itself.

4-CO2 Regulator and Check Valve.39

Regulator and one way valve for when the gas supply arrives of course.

The original plan was to mount the reactor on the back face of one of the cabinet doors, to allow easy access and maintenance and so it stands in unused space when the door is closed, as well as freeing up cabinet real estate.

The back plate however is slightly to large to fit through the doors!

7-DaStaCo Calcium Reactor.09

But seeing as its only a sheet of acrylic with several simple tube clips and support brackets i have purchase another piece to have a go at remounting the reaction tubes.

I could have taken the original back piece down a bit but didnt want to damage it in anyway so it can be put back to its original state in future, should it be required. With around 10mm lopped off the side the it will fit through the gap perfect and then into the space between the closed door and the sump.

8-DaStaCo Calcium Reactor.22

Still leaving a reasonable gap…

9-DaStaCo Calcium Reactor.32

Monday, 10 December 2012

Java Fern Propagation

The small new plants growing on my “mother” Java Fern have been coming along at some rate now. There must be almost a dozen of them in various sizes strewn all over the main plant, which also continues to grow its own rhizome and creep along the piece of bog wood it is attached to.

Recently two leaves were released. I assume this is the plants way of letting the new plants go and find pastures new, using the discarded leaf as a sail to catch the currents.

I noticed this happen over the course of around 48 hours where the leaf stem started to brown and thin down, and eventually i found it on the opposite side of the tank buried in one of the Valis plants.

Interestingly the leaves are “heavy” and tend to sink rather than float to the surface which is another interesting concept of the plant.

Is it wrong to call a plant clever? It’s certainly an intriguing method of keeping your species going!

I rescued and dethatched the new plants and attached them to a piece of PVC tube until i can obtain some pieces of wood.

I am going to attempt to mature them in time for the pending upgrade of this tank so i have more Java Ferns to work with when it gets setup.

1-Java Fern Propagation.44.44

My Bristlenose appears to have taken it upon himself to guard the new plants!

Sunday, 25 November 2012

How To: Clean a Hydor Koralia Nano 900

I wont dwell on this one too much as the cleaning process is pretty much the same as > How To: Clean a Juwel Power Head with the following points regarding the Nano 900 itself…

2-Hydor Koralia Nano 900 Cleaning.05

To get at the impeller, you need to gently pull away the front half of the grille. It can be a little stiff, but you should be able to hook your finger nails under the ridge on the casing and tease it away from the rear half…

3-Hydor Koralia Nano 900 Cleaning.44

The impeller is magnetic and lifts out of the motor body…

4-Hydor Koralia Nano 900 Cleaning.04

The steel shaft can also be removed, just pull it gently as it’s seated in a rubber bush at the bottom of the hole…

5-Hydor Koralia Nano 900 Cleaning.52

Use a small bottle brush to clean any muck out of the hole and prevent the impeller jamming. Be cautious about the rubber bush in the bottom as to not damage it.

When you replace the shaft ensure you push it firmly into position, you will feel it squeeze in and touch the bottom.

Clean down all the parts, replace the impeller and the cover making sure you align the key tab on the top, and you are good to go!

My Nano 900 wasn't especially dirty, but you can do the vinegar dip if you feel it is required.

Purigen Bag Results

Today has been the day to carry out a Purigen change and, see how well the media bag i made in a previous post had faired.

I had forgotten all about doing it to be honest, which can only be a good thing, and as it turns out, it has carried out the job perfectly, keeping the Purigen in one place and not degrading while in the water.

I made up a new amount today in a fresh bag. Another good idea is to use a measuring cylinder to work out how much you need.

As far as the Purigen itself goes, my nitrates have remained stable and under 10ppm for months now.

I also threw the old stuff out without thinking and really want to have a go at regenerating it. Ill make sure i do so on the next time round.

1-Seachem Purigen Media Bag.36

Wednesday, 21 November 2012

A couple points of interest.

Two things have caught my attention recently.

One is the proposed App for the GHL Profilux. Will be great to control the system from the comfort of my phone!

Not sure exactly how it will connect, assuming local Wi-Fi control rather than over the Internet monitoring? Would be nice if the latter were part of the parcel though.

I do wonder if it will begin to render the Profilux Touch as obsolete however? The screen shots seen on the GHL support forum show quite a nice and slick interface with more apparent control than the Touch. Obviously not as quick and as convenient to get a quick parameter check as you breeze past the aquarium or have the need to find your phone first to initiate a feed pause etc...

Details on the GHL Support Forum

Either way I'm looking forward to having a go!

The other item is the Eheim reeflexUV steriliser unit.

I originally planned to use an Aqua Medic Helix UV on my reef build, but with the largest reeflexUV only consuming a tiny 11watts, I'm seriously considering the Eheim instead. After all, a portion of my build is dedicated to using the most energy efficient and sustainable equipment and methods.

What look like union joints for easy install and removal, and that bottle clip style holder, mounting should be an easy task, and the aluminium can design looks simple and sophisticated.

I haven't found any UK prices yet, but if you Google the units, a couple of UK based online retailers will reveal they are due to stock them.

eheim reeflex uv